18 June 2025.
Berducedo to Grandas de Salime. 23.3/14.5mi. 8 hours.
“What goes down must come up.”
Today’s challenge was a gnarly, 750 meter descent over 7km in full sun (that’s 2460 feet over 4.3mi), followed by a 350m (1150ft) ascent on the other side of a reservoir. Thanks to patience and trekking poles, my knee actually did okay! My big toes were not happy, though. I’m seriously surprised I didn’t lose a toenail or two 
The two most technically challenging days of the Camino Primitivo are now behind me! There’s still a lot of distance and weather ahead, but I shed a little tear of joy when I reached the dam at the bottom of today’s descent.
Peregrino notes: Today was a different challenge than yesterday. Be sure to bring more water than you think you’ll need. Hotel las Grandas (about 1km up from the reservoir on the other side) is a good place to stop for a lunch break before the long ascent to Grandas de Salime. I’m treating myself to a night at Hotel la Barra, which is quite lovely (and associated with a fun bar around the corner).
